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Cells to Hold Loose Crystals for Micromounting
You are here: MineralCollecting.org >> Posted Articles >> Article 32

by G. Robert Massey
From the Mineral Mite, Newsletter of The Micromineralogists of the
National Capital Area, Washington, D. C March 1998

CELLS TO HOLD LOOSE CRYSTALS FOR MICROMOUNTING

Although loose crystals may be glued to a pedestal, in some instances it is impractical, such as when the crystals are hygroscopic or if it is desirable to move the crystals around for better viewing. A sealed cell to contain the specimens will provide one answer to the problem. (Note, fragile crystals will be damaged in such a method of mounting). Base construction: This is a circular (or nearly so) disc of thin plastic. 1/32 to 1/16 inch thick. It must be of a glueable plastic, either polystyrene or acrylic (plexiglass). White is preferable, but black may show up the evaporates better. Avoid polyethylene, glues won't stick permanently to it. Suitable white material may be obtained from the packaging used for toothbrushes, or from the bases of European plastic display boxes. Black can be obtained from any of the "Perky' series of mineral boxes. Saw out discs or octagons slightly larger than the diameter of the plastic tube to be used. File the inside surface x~ith a "smooth cut mill file to flatten the surface. Then lightly sand the surface with 280 grit. wet or dry abrasive paper, used wet with a "figure 8" motion. This will give a non-reflective surface.

Cylinder: The cylinder is best made from slices of plastic tubing. Plastic (polystyrene) test tubes are cheap and at convenient sizes. Acrylic tubing 3/8 to 1/2 inch in diameter may also be used. Saw off slices of a length suitable for the crystals to be contained. A "razor saw", obtainable at any hobby shop, is ideal. Get the very fine pitch tooth version. A simple wooden miter box will insure square cuts. File both ends flat and square. Trim off the file and saw "fuzz" with an Exacto knife.

Cover: Plastic (polystyrene) microscope slides are most convenient. They only come in square shapes but are easily cut with scissors. An Octagon is easiest to cut, but a circle can be cut with cuticle scissors. The)' should be slightly larger than the diameter of the cylinder.

Assembly: The base can be glued to the cylinder using epoxy (preferred), or cellulose cement (DuPont), or clear finger nail polish. One needs to experiment to discover what works best for himself. It is important to get a seal all around with a minimum of excess glue. The cell and base should be set aside for at least 24 hours to insure complete bonding. After one gets the hang of it, it is convenient to work-up a stock of cells for future use.

Finishing: With the crystals in place comes the tricky part gluing the cover on without smearing glue where not wanted. It is best to use Duco cement diluted with acetone to give a longer working time. Apply a thin ring of glue around the edge of the cylinder and carefully place the cover piece on. Handle the cover only by the edges and - very important- blow off any dust or lint just as you place the cover onto the cylinder. The plastic is very susceptible to static charges attracting lint. Be careful not to get fingerprints on the cover. The use of lint free gloves is very useful. The gloves may be purchased at photo shops and arc not vcry expensive. The cell may now be glued to a pedestal for insertion into a micromount box. (This article was taken from the International Micromounter ~' Journal. the quarterly newsletter of the International Federation of Micromount Societies. December 1997.

 Journal Editor. Dick Thomssen, appended the following note: "Bob Massey wrote this article shortly before his death in August 1997 and it was submitted to the Journal by Bill Meinert. l have used cells similar to those described for many years and find them to be of considerable value in preserving and viewing small loose single crystals.")

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